Pride Rear Bracket for Perform Max 6X Drawer Slides, Price/Each

Once again there are no screws included although the directions and packing materials show screws included, ordered twice, does not include screws.

I put maybe a 20 pound drawer on this assuming that it could handle that weight. When i closed it, it was a little too much force. Both mechanisms broke. Pretty cheap plastic.

I built drawers for our new (to us) camper that had none in the kitchen area. I had the benefit of using these on other projects and they are rock solid. What I had not planned for was the fact that the "slow close" mechanism also securely holds the drawers closed as we are towing the camper. I was all ready to put latches on the drawers, but no need.

I bought these to replace all the soft-close drawer slides in our custom-built MBR closet most of which failed after just a couple of years of normal use! They are noticeably heavier (stronger) and the double-spring mechanism provides a more confident, controlled closure than the single-spring versions we paid a lot of money for. I believe these will be executing their simple tasks for a long time.

I'm using these to replace kitchen cabinet slides which were new in 1997. Those didn't have soft close nor do they have full extension. The great thing about these is they work in those older cabinets and have full open. I previously used Blum under drawer slides which are fabulous but these 1997 cabinet drawers have zero clearance between the side bottoms and the frame. The LONTAN are the best option I could find.As other reviewers state, the instructions leave a lot to your imagination. After installing 3 drawers, I started to get the hang of it. The Jig's you can buy online don't help. I found that in cabinetry, the tolerances are VERY high (if you care about how things look). So, the Jig's leave too much slop to be useful.But my main reason for 3 stars is the screws. LONTAN recommends using a Pozidriv 2 screwdriver. After stripping and breaking several screws using a standard phillips 2, bought the PZ2 bits but they were much worse at stripping the screws. The metal of these screws is really cheap and soft.My cabinet frames are maple and so they are very hard. Even tho I pre-drill, I often break the head off. I've even tried cranking down the settings on my Ryobi battery powered drill to around 8 or 7 but then I have trouble getting the screw to fully seat. Breaking heads is bad - especially in the one hole which mounts the front to the frame. Once you break the screw head off there, you can no longer use that hole. There are two holes above/below that but they are much harder to use and if the screw is not 100 flat, it scrapes on the metal.Additionally, there's a plastic piece that the drawer feeds into on the end of the slide. For some reason, they have additional plastic sticking out exactly where you need to put the screw! You can "open" the slider and find another hole but this is awkward and doesn't allow you to see that you have the 1/8" clearance to the front face of the frame.As others have stated, the initial pull you need to get the drawer open takes some getting used to. My drawers have a single round knob in the middle so it's pretty easy for your hand to slip off the knob as you try to open the drawer.Finally, the main reason to have soft close is so the drawers all close. These slides need a little push to get the soft close mechanism to engage when the drawer is about 2" from the closed position. It's not unusual for the drawer to stop at the 2" and stay open. I wonder if I've made things go from drawers which are typically only 1/4" open to drawers that are 2" open!Honestly, if the screws were not complete crap, I would probably be OK with these other limitations. And if I didn't have Blum under drawer slides installed in other places, I wouldn't know that the soft close can be so much better.

Packages were opened screws were missing on sets