Lisle LS36500 Ridge Reamer

its one of those tools that you only need a couple times... ever. So the quality is good enough. Very basic tool, but it does the job. For the price, it's a bargain. Of course, I won't be able to find it the next time I need it, which will probably be years from now, so I'll have to buy another one! Lol

It accomplished what it needed to do !

Worked great.

Great product for a low budget job. No fine adjustments on this one but as link as you are patient and don't rush it, and check as you go.... it does the job!

I read a lot of the reviews before I ordered this one, and thought maybe the design was flawed - that's simply not the case. I believe the negative comments are due to lack of instruction and understanding of how the device works. I've used the older style ridge cutter extensively, so I knew what to expect, and I think that's the only reason it worked for me. While working the ridge on my 140,000 miles Ford 5.4L it took between 80 and 105 full revolution ( depending on how much I tightened the expander, to remove the ridge. The two arms that do not contain the cutter are key: push them both down, and hold them, flat on the block deck before you tighten the cutter. When you tighten the cutter, only turn it 1/4 turn after you feel it make contact with the top of the ridge. While holding from the center (to keep the non-cutter arms flat on the deck) with one hand, crank the turning wrench (open/box-end or socket) five full revolutions and check the cutting progress. If it looks like you're just polishing the ridge, tighten the adjuster another 1/8 turn and give it another five turns and check again. You should now see about 1/8 inch of cut surface. Remember to keep lots of hand pressure on the top of your tool with one hand while you crank with the other. Count the full revolutions of the cutter as you go, and check the remaining ridge, about every twenty full revolutions, with your fingernail. Keep holding down and cranking until the ridge no longer catches your fingernail, then stop, loosen the adjustor 1/2 turn and move to the next cylinder. You should be sweating a little at this point. It should take about five minutes (or longer) per cylinder and you may need to take a break in between. The little (1/8) plastic button on the bottom of the cutting blade is there for the cutter to feel it's angle in the cylinder, but you must have the arms pressed down flat on the block, at all times, for that to work. If you are a DIYer, and you've gotten this far, you have both moxie and skills, but you will also have tired arms by the time you're done with 8 or 10 cylinders. Good luck.

easy to use, however the little plastic guide button under the blade held it crooked and didnt cut straight, i simply ground it down until blade engaged evenly